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Looking out of the hotel window into the Golfo Nuevo the Atlantic ocean was steaming – the sea was 8oC and the air only 4oC. Through the early morning fog the water was churning and bubbling too. There were whales, whales and more whales, all of them surfacing and blowing. The ocean, close to the shore, looked just like a huge bowl of whale soup – a description given by university student Marina Passera who was watching this spectacular site at the same time. On the opposite side of the isthmus to the Peninsula Valdes, in the Golfo San Matias, lies the 10,000 hectares, and 12 kms of coastline, that the WLT is hoping to purchase and protect as a nature reserve.
This tract of land has more than 300 guanacos roaming it and the current owner told us that a puma had killed over 100 of his merino sheep. Since Puma are virtually extinct in the region, we were somewhat sceptical, but later in the day actually found puma scats. On the long shelving beach we saw a herd of sea lions, and apparently killer whales have been seen to rush up the beach to grab a pup – just as the sequence that was seen in David Attenborough’s Trial’s of Life, TV series, which was filmed in the same bay. Mara, cuis, tortoises, rhea and hairy armadillos are among some of the other wildlife known to be there. (See Patagonia Photos. )
On excursions to the adjacent peninsula (which was declared a World Heritage site last year) we saw colonies of elephant seal, lots more sea lions, despite the changeable midwinter weather of Patagonia. From Puerto Pyramide on the Peninsula we took a whale watching boat for one of the best wildlife watching experiences in the world. Right whales to the right of us, right whales to the left, and right whales underneath the boat. And all very close and very active showing all the spectacular behaviour usually only seen on TV films. But in real life they are so different. They are huge, not only can you see and hear them, but you can even smell them.
But there is pressure to buy – land speculation is forcing prices up, and we are not the only ones interested in buying the land. The World Land Trust has enough money for a deposit, but we still need to find the balance, and there are all the other associated legal costs, not to mention the costs of management once purchased.
Donations now are vital. Even if we fail to buy this ranch all is not lost and the funds raised would not be wasted, as there are others coming on the market, but it would be a great pity, as it is so perfectly situated, and is particularly rich in the local wildlife. Another owner is more than likely to try and shoot the pumas, and they are already incredibly rare in the region. We need to act as soon as possible.
As a result of my visit the World Land Trust has been promised a donation of $75,000 towards the purchase, but we need more – and every little helps. Tax- deductible donations can be made to the Massachusetts Audubon Society in the US and donations can be made in the UK using the Gift Aid scheme. It is a chance to save a really significant tract of wilderness. 25,000 acres is big.
"Causana Viajes is a Patagonia-based Tour Operator specialising in wildlife. The founders Carol and Carlos Passera, hosted John Burton on his visits, and have also created a very informative web site. WLT supporters looking for information on Patagonia should check it out."
See Causana Viajes
http://www.causana.com.ar/